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A Sweet Slice of Immigrant Resilience in Brooklyn

Op-Ed: Russian grocer NetCost Market's 25th anniversary celebrates the strength of immigrants in New York City.
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In the heart of Brooklyn’s bustling Ocean Avenue, where the scent of fresh rye bread mingles with the tang of pickled herring, a slice of Russian resilience took center stage on Oct. 25, 2025. NetCost Market, an international grocery chain born from the dreams of Eastern European immigrants, celebrated its 25th anniversary with a joyous party that drew hundreds of families, live music, raffle drawings, local politicians, and community leaders—perhaps most memorably—a 27-foot Napoleon cake that broke local records for sheer indulgence.

Though initially envisioned as a precise 25 feet to symbolize each year of perseverance, the final creation emerged two feet longer, a heartfelt overflow that captured the essence of former Soviet immigrant culture: an innate drive to always do more, whether taking that extra step to lend a hand to someone in need, preparing extra food to feed the hungry, or extending the sweetness of life to touch more souls. The air buzzed with excitement and warmth, evoking a deep sense of pride and belonging among attendees, many of whom had been with the store from the very beginning.

The cake, a nod to the store’s Russian roots, unfolded as a true labor of love—layers upon layers of flaky puff pastry interleaved with custard cream, stretching end-to-end across the store like a banner of triumph. The cake's fragile layers wove a touching tale of the immigrant path: much like thin pastry sheets aligned and bound by creamy custard to endure strain and rise as one harmonious whole, newcomers layer their lives, turning raw vulnerability into unyielding strength through shared perseverance and determination.

This binding force echoes immigrant communities leaning on one another, offering mutual support to build neighborhoods that thrive amid adversity; in turn, these layered tapestries of solidarity fortify America itself: a resilient nation that nourishes all. What made this cake truly special, though, were the hands that crafted it—the Shnayder family, whose vision has guided NetCost from a lone outpost to a flourishing chain across New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Florida. As slices were shared, a wave of nostalgia and gratitude washed over the crowd, reminding everyone of the tender emotions tied to building something lasting from humble beginnings.

It all began in 2000, when father-son duo Sam and Eduard Shnayder pooled their savings to open the first NetCost Market on E. 16th Street in Sheepshead Bay. The family, who had fled economic turmoil in the post-Soviet era, envisioned a haven for fellow immigrants craving the tastes of home: kvass on tap, pelmeni, olivier salad and herring in fur.

Eduard Shnayder said nobody believed the family would succeed, but the more doubt people expressed, the more determined he and his father became. The skepticism didn’t discourage them but, on the contrary, gave them the strength to push forward, fueling their passion with an unshakable fire.

Today, NetCost boasts over a dozen stores, each a microcosm of global bounty that fills visitors with wonder and comfort. Beyond the Eastern European staples, the shelves brim with halal meats from Turkey, spices from India, plantains from Latin America, and even Korean ramyeon for the neighborhood’s growing diverse tapestry. This eclectic embrace has turned NetCost into more than a market—it’s a vital connection for immigrants striving to build new lives in America, stirring emotions of relief and excitement as they find echoes of their past amid the new.

In many ways, NetCost symbolizes America itself—a nation built by immigrants layering diverse contributions to create something greater, evoking a swell of patriotic pride intertwined with personal stories of triumph. Just as the store’s aisles unite foods from every corner of the globe, the U.S. has been forged by people from varied backgrounds collaborating to construct a vibrant society, where each addition brings warmth and richness. The Shnayders’ success story is a testament to the unyielding spirit of immigrants who’ve reshaped New York’s culinary landscape, inspiring awe and admiration for the resilience that turns obstacles into opportunities.


Viktorya Evelkin is a Brooklyn resident and a big fan of NetCost Market.

 




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